France

At a glance

Recreating My Parisian Literary Retreat

I want to revisit Paris, to idle in Paris. I want to walk the streets of Paris deep in thought, to spend more time at Parisian cafés with Swann’s Way, and to browse the unique book collections of bouquinistes, those secondhand booksellers with their green metal boxes lined against The Seine.

Yes, as I review my travel plans, I realize I have Paris literary travel nostalgia, if there is such a term. How and when will I get there again? I do not know. But can a girl dream?

I want to sit on the theatre-like outdoor seats of Café de la Rotonde, nurse a cup of coffee for hours, people-watch and journal. Picasso painted Café de la Rotonde with gratitude to the owner who let him sit for hours without sometimes having the money to pay. The idle coffee shop visit is something artists have treasured for years. One of my favorite reprints I own of Van Gogh’s is his Café Terrace at Night, from Arles, France.

I want to picnic again in The Luxembourg Gardens, Jardin du Luxembourg. It is in this Parisian and literary landmark that Marius first sees Cosette walking with Jean Valjean in Les Misérables, by Victor Hugo. Their magic begins with glances and repeated encounters. The gardens is a magical place. It is also great for relaxation and reading during the summer, which I experienced. I picnicked there with a group of writers. We ate cheese, drank refreshing wine, and discussed the practice of the literary arts.  

I don’t know about you, but I’m always the one seeking some respite from a flurry of activity. A great solution is The Statute Walk in the gardens. It is contemplative beauty, with its rendition of Queens and writers lining pathways. 

You may choose, if you dare, while walking The Latin Quarter, to stop by The Panthéon, the mausoleum that contains the remains of Voltaire and Rousseau. I did not dare.

I did, however, walk past the Saint Michel Fountain, or Fontaine Saint-Michel, where archangel Michael is depicted vanishing the devil in the fight of good versus evil.  And from The Quai de Montebello, I had beautiful views of the Notre-Dame de Paris, Notre-Dame Cathedral, without fighting the tourist traffic. 

In a revisit to Paris, I would visit Shakespeare and Company earlier during the day and give myself hours to bask. It is one of the most famous bookshops in the world, so of course every literature lover wants to be there. A lifeline for some of the most influential writers of the 20th century, it hosted writers such as, Anaïs Nin, Henry Miller, Julio Cortázar, and James Baldwin—authors of great books that line my shelves as I write this.

Shakespeare and Company’s collection is exquisite. There are chairs in corners to allow you to sit and browse. You don’t get the invasive videos and phones here because they are not allowed. While their new cafe was overcrowded when I visited, I enjoyed a nice, warm cacao latte with ginger and vanilla as I stood in a corner. 

Sure, I visited The Eiffel Tower. Every tourist wants to visit the Eiffel Tower. And why not ? It is one of the most recognizable architectural structures in the world. Will I revisit it on a repeat venture to Paris? I’m not sure. Unless I do something differently, like take the elevator to the top with the champagne toast special as a culmination. Still, have you seen those lines to take the elevator? You should know that getting here feels like being thrown into a den of wolves. It is absolutely chaotic with tour bus, taxi, tourist, scooter, and selfie traffic. So, plan accordingly. 

My revisit to Paris may involve slower paced, more intentional time at The Seine, The Luxembourg Gardens, and definitely the Latin Quarter. Where will yours take you? Let’s dream together.