Reading by the Atlantic in Liberia

This year I returned to Liberia after three decades.

I felt as if I needed to return to the source of my turmoil in order to be brave enough to venture on this new path of reading around the world and to slowly overcome my reclusiveness. I had to do so in order to heal. I also desperately needed to visit my ailing father.

I found the Atlantic and felt at peace. In Monrovia, I reminisced with the Atlantic Ocean: blue, gray, and silver.  Flowing sideways and forward, it seemed to be waving to me, welcoming me back.

I stood next to the ocean at Unification Park, a place that marks the start of the Civil War that led many Liberians to displacement. It was at this park where The New York Times reported the execution of the Liberian President Tolbert’s diplomats. The event marked brutality within Liberian politics that spiraled into the Civil War that I survived and escaped as a teenager.

I returned to the seaside community of Congo Town, to the beach I frequented as a child: the Congo Town Beach, an isolated strip of ocean near the German Embassy. Here, the sand is a beautiful gold-brown hue and the ocean purrs. Secluded and quiet, it is a nice spot to take a blanket, sit on the sand, and read.

Monrovia, the capital city of Liberia, is a coastal hub, connecting travelers to many of the country’s most beautiful seaside communities. However, there are spaces on the outskirts of Monrovia that are known seaside towns. These places are great for relaxation, retreat, and reading.

• Robertsport is known for surfing and beautiful beaches. It also houses historical information about African American freed slaves who made Liberia their home.
• Marshall is a quiet coastal community southeast of Monrovia.
• Buchanan is Liberia’s second-largest city and also a beach destination.

Connected to Bodies of Water

Monrovia is on a peninsula bordered by the Atlantic Ocean and the Mesurado River, so you will easily access small fishermen riverfronts, lagoons, eateries with water views, and serene ocean views that are not marred by skyscrapers.

Places to Eat

Calabash, on Oldest Congo Town Road. This is my favorite eatery in Liberia. Also a boutique hotel, the Calabash restaurant has a cigar bar, a mix of Liberian and global cuisine, and great cocktails—my favorite being the Calabash which is served in a calabash. (If you are a reader around the world who loves African stories, you know that the calabash is a major symbol and theme). Try the plantains appetizer at this restaurant and you won’t regret the way they prepare theirs. They also offer great live entertainment on weekend nights.

Café Royale at the Royal Grand, on Tubman Blvd. What most refer to as avocado, Liberians call butter pear. The butter pear in Liberia is an avocado that is actually the size and shape of a pear. Café Royale has dishes that includes fresh butter pear.  Their lunch buffet is a popular daily event and their donut bar offers some great desserts. A popular meeting place for professionals and dignitaries, the restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

Places to Stay

The Royal Grand Hotel, on Tubman Blvd. With a rooftop bar, a café and restaurant, a spa, and comfortable accommodations, this hotel is a hot spot in Monrovia. Centrally located, it also provides easy access to other parts of the city for tourists, and also arrangements for airport transfers.

Precious Guesthouse. Liberia is known for its guesthouses and villas. Located in Congo Town, this is a gated compound just off Tubman Blvd, with 2-bedroom units—ensuite—with half baths for entertainment, a kitchen, and terrace. Cooks and transportation can be curated and the property has a backup generator.

Cultural Places to Visit

• The National Museum of Liberia on Broad Street. Although most of its artifacts were destroyed during the civil war, the museum still hosts significant historical pieces, including a gift from Queen Victoria to Liberia’s first president, Joseph Jenkins Roberts.
• Providence Island. A historical and cultural site that I secretly hope becomes a UNESCO World Heritage Site (it is pending approval), this is where former American slaves and freedmen, brought by the American Colonization Society, first successfully settled in Liberia. Visit to see a modern palaver hut, a symbol of community and conflict resolution in Liberia, or view the 2oo+ year-old cotton tree.
• The Liberian Learning Center in Paynesville. An educational and learning facility, this center is a comprehensive library and coworking space. It offers a great community reading space that works well for children’s groups and adult book clubs.
• The Liberian marketplace. There are several marketplaces, where you will find colorful displays of fruits, clothes, handmade goods and jewelry, and artwork. This is an energetic space that gives you a glimpse of Liberian culture. These open-air markets are loud, vibrant, filled with the sounds of vendors yelling prices, music playing and cars honking. You will also find fresh roasted meat on kabobs, roasted cassava, and fried plantains. It is an eventful trip, and to some tourists it can be an overwhelming, so it is advisable to go with a Liberian guide.

 Read more for book recommendations from Liberia.